Maiden's Stone- Divci Kamen

Maiden's Stone- Divci Kamen

Maiden’s stone (Divci Kamen), which can be found on the way between Cesky Krumlov and Ceske Budejovice, is an impressive ruins of medieval castle.  There’re a lot of different attractions to choose from on the way, among them observation tower Klet or Zlata Koruna monastery, but ruins of the castle were the most alluring to me.

There’re two ways to get to Maiden’s Stone. Set off to Trisov and park in front of the small railway station, then follow the concrete path. Once you reach the markers, you can continue on concrete path or turn left to a red trail. There’s almost no difference in length, both ways have about a kilometer and a half. While the concrete path may seem to be drab, believe me it is not. It may be easier and less exciting for avid hikers, but the short glimpse on the ruins, you can take at the look-out, is one of a kind. I recommend this path to bikers or people travelling with kids on baby carriage, as the red path might be difficult to pass through. If you travel with no extra “luggage” I’d say you go one way and return the other one to create some diversification.

This Monday jaunt took as about 2 hours. I need to admit, it was quite an experience to be alone in such a place and to have the castle all for ourselves. We could have done picnic in the heart of the courtyard, taken some pictures, where no unwanted head, hand or leg of other people will appear or sneak to every place we wished, searching for hidden treasure. Although castle is opened year round, back then in November it wasn’t a common tourist’s destination. Remember, ruins of castle may be closed due to bad weather condition, so it’s always better to check the current news from the castle before going there. Now since the January 26^th entering the castle is prohibited due to snow and ice coverage as it’s dangerous and slippery there.

There’s a legend connected with building the castle. Of course, as usual eternal love is involved. There was a young boy peeping at a beautiful girl, who was coming at the Vltava’s bank every day. He immediately fell in love with her, and one day he plucked up his courage and asked if she would marry him. She agreed on one condition, that he will build her home close to her favourite place at the river bank. He named it after her, to show his absolute love.

Nowadays, it’s one of the best preserved ruins of the medieval castle in the Czech Republic, it was abandoned in XVI century  and not repaired or reconstructed since then. We can only imagine how big it must have been when it was finished in XIV century, today there’re still some remnants of the fortification visible on the way along the river or 10 meters high walls. 

Unfortunately this is nowhere close to Brno, but why don’t you visit it on your way to South Bohemia Region.

EnjoyJ

International Fair of Regional Tourism, Brno

International Fair of Regional Tourism in Brno Exhibition Centre, 

BVV official website

This weekend in Brno Exhibition Centre, so called Veletrhy Brno an International Fair of Regional Tourism will be organized. It is the 23^rd time such an event is happening. I really think it will be a really nice opportunity to get to know the Czech Republic and the Czechs better. According to the official BVV website we can expect presentations of  the tourism industry in the Czech Republic, promotions of different Czech regions together with regional food tasting, offers regarding spending your free time, presentations about cultural and historical places of interests as well as presentations about gripping natural areas and attractions. Travel agencies will also offer  a variety of tourism destinations. I’m really looking forward to learning about cycle-tourism and some tips on spending free time actively on nature.  

Along with the Fair of Regional Tourism, the BVV Centre will held the GO Camera Festival as well. This is a festival about documentary movies, photography and books/guidebooks connected with tourism.

By the way, I checked out figures from last year fair and I need to admit that the numbers are surprising, there were around 28 thousand guests, who took part in regional tourism fair, while 879 tourist companies from all over Europe were presenting their offers.  

In order to participate in the fair all you need to do is to register, print the confirmation and bring it with you on spot. With the registration you get 30 kc discount. The entrance fee is then 130 kc on Friday and Saturday and 80 kc on Sunday. Keep in mind that Thursday is for tourist companies’ owners only. Here you can find the event’s schedule. Besides that, stalls will be spotted around the place.

I will definitely take some photos and share my impressions from the event later on. 

Hluboka nad Vltavou- a fairy-tale castle

Hluboka nad Vltavou

There’re several chateaux and Castles in the Czech Republic opened year round. Among famous Prague Castle, Karlstejn or Rozmberk you can visit alluring Hluboka nad Vltavou Castle, which looks as if made of sand, but its construction is more compact.

Project from XIX century was patterned on Windsor Castle. Through ages it underwent many reconstructions from a military fortress through Renaissance and Baroque Style to Tudor Gothic. Along with the owners the Castle’s design was changing. For over three centuries Castle was reign by Bohemian rulers, then it belonged to William of Pernstejn, who was also responsible for building fish ponds in South Bohemia. In 1562 the Castle was sold to the Lords of Hradec. When finally in 1661 the Castle was taken over by the Schwarzenbergs, who in XVIII century enlarged and rebuilt the Castle in Baroque style. Eleonora of Liechtenstein together with her husband Johann Adolf II initiated another rebuilding, this time in Neo-Gothic Style. The last Schwarzenberg owner of Hluboka nad Vltavou was Adolf Schwarzenberg. From 1950 Castle belongs to Czechoslovakia (now the Czech Republic) Interestingly, the first mention of the Hluboka Castle dates back to XIII century, however the owner as well as the Castle’s original structure is obscure even today. Inside there’re some pictures of the Castle, showing how it might look like before.

So if snowboarding, skiing or making a snowman is not your cup of tea, try visiting Hluboka nad Vltavou Castle, but beware of Mondays, when it is closed for sightseeing. It’s open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 o’clock a.m. to 4 o’clock p.m. Winter’s visitor tour valid from November 1^st to March 31^st costs 140 kc for Czech speakers, 230 kc with a foreign language commentary and 185 kc with audio guide. Reckless would be not to go inside. Interiors are spacious, colourful and full of decorations. Countless fireplaces deserve your attention, some of which are genuine wooden or murmur masterpieces. As well as the meticulously carved mirror frame in the Reading Room.  Each and every room is ornamented with different owner’s portraits. The Large Dining Room decorated with tapestries could take up to 70 people. On the first sight “small” table in the centre could be enlarged. The brightest and biggest hall held the Library, a place, where almost 12 00 volumes in 5 different languages are kept. The last one on our tour was the Armoury with smashing collection of weapon, small arms and fire arms. The tour takes about an hour.

Don’t forget about the huge Castle’s gardens. 

We happened to be there on our last day on a 3 day trip to South Bohemia, which was a pleasant conclusion. The closest city is Ceske Budejovice, remote about 10 kilometres south. It’s only 200 kilometres from Brno, which makes it accessible within 2 hours via car or 5 hours via train (with a stop in Ceske Budejovice). Parking in the city centre is chargeable, however you can find several streets where parking meters are not available, for example Horni street, 28 rijna street (parking by the cemetery is allowed only for an hour)

Cesky Krumlov

Cesky Krumlov

It’s been almost 4 weeks since I came back from a trip to Cesky Krumlov and Ceske Budejovice. Until now I couldn’t find time to sit down and write.

First of all November or December is not the best time for sightseeing. Obviously the biggest advantage is the lack of crowd, however the huge disadvantage is that most of the tourist attractions are already closed. The peak season for tourism is until October 31^st.

Even though Cesky Krumlov is far from Brno, the trip is worth your while. A 3 hour road trip may be diversified. If you choose not to go by highway, you can visit staggering Telc, Trebon or Jindrichuv Hradec.

Similarly to Prague, there’re several parking places dotted around the city. Unfortunately parking is charged 20 kc per hour, there’s no “cheaper” 24-hour ticket. One of the parking places is close to the castle, the other one is at the very end of the castle’s gardens and I noticed one more, which was located really close to the Synagogue.

The city itself is not big, all tourists attractions are within walking distance. If you really insist you can visit Cesky Krumlov within a day, but I suggest staying longer and taking your time. You’ll then get  the chance to get to know the unique atmosphere of one of the most romantic cities in the Czech Republic.

Before we even got to the city centre, on our first day in Cesky Krumlov we head toward the cross hill in order to see the city from a different angle. From a P3 car parking it was about 20 minutes marching uphill. We crossed the river, followed Po Vode street and went upstairs to Krizova street, then we followed blue trail. Also, another option: if you’re in the city centre, there’s a red trail leading to Cross Hill from the Cesky Krumlov Castle. It seemed like we went off the beaten track, as we were the only one climbing up the hill. It was a pity a cloister was closed, but I took a quick glance at the yard through its big window shutter. Although you might find the march quite demanding, the view speak for itself.

On our way back we head straight over to the Tourist Information Centre to get the Cesky Krumlov card, which allowed us to visit Castles’ museum and tower, Regional Museum, Siedel’s Fotoatelier Museum and Egon Shiele Art Centrum for a song. All of which, are open all year round. The ticket, which is valid 6 month, cost 200kc, while normally we would pay more than 500 kc to enter to all those places.

Our first point in the city was the castle. Enormous building, it’s visible almost from every place in the city. I overheard quite an interesting conversation about it. Most people probably know that Cesky Krumlov castle is the second biggest castle in the Czech Republic, but not everybody knows that it’s called Cesky Krumlov castle-chateaux.  It looks like a castle from the exterior, almost like made of rock, but the interiors are held in baroque style, which makes it a chateaux. What’s even more interesting is the fact that bears are kept at the castle’s entrance. In fact, there’s a long tradition connected with that. No sooner than in the second half of 16^th century William of Rosenberg started to keep bears in the castle. From that point we headed to the castle tower, where we could see the whole city. If not strong and cold wind I could’ve stayed there forever. Afterward, we moved quickly to the castles’ museum. We’re running out of time as the castle’s museum is open only till 4 p.m. If you’re not an avid reader(There’re A4 sized full of text  informative brochures about each room), the museum can be viewed within 15 minutes. For us it was a quick run from a bedroom to a dining room and so forth. The good news was that taking pictures inside was not forbidden, therefore I could read all the essential info at home, not rushed by time. 

I really wished I could see famous castle theatre, but unluckily at this time of the year it is closed. It was after 4 p.m. when we got out of the castle. It wouldn’t make sense to go to the castle garden as it was already getting dark and besides we were so hungry that we started to look around for a possible source of food.

On the second day we got up quite early in order to see what’ left: Fotoatelier, Egon Schiele museum and Regional Museum in that particular order.

The tour at the Seidel fotoatelier starts every full hour, it’s necessary to come at least 5 minutes before that time. If you’re not a Czech speaker you may get an  audio tour that’s included in the ticket price. The tour takes approximately an hour. First you’ll hear a short story about the origin of the building, it was quite interesting that the first atelier was in the garden, and the only building there was the one, where ticket office is located right now. Only after two years Seidel, who in fact wasn’t the founder, but just started working there was able to rebuild it, he built a completely new studio, which also served as the apartment for the Seidel family. Photography was a very lucrative business back then. We learnt that the studio thrived during the WW2, as soldier staying in Cesky Krumlov wanted to have a picture, which they could send to family.

Seidel was not only a photographer and traveler, he also had his own stationery shop. Some of the original items are still there. There’re loads of photos made by Seidel, mainly photos of Sumava mountain range and Alps. All the equipment we can admire today was originally used by Seidel. Even some original outfits stayed there. It’s amazing, when we compare present-day mini cameras with big and heavy cameras Seidel used. Imagine how heavy his backpack must have been…and he travelled by bike. Nowadays “Fotoatelier” is not a museum only, it still serves as atelier. You can dress up in some of the early 20^th century outfits and have a session taken by a professional photographer. Arrange your casting at the ticket office.

Reserve at least 2 hours at the Egon Schiele gallery. It’s huge and spacious, located on several floors.

In a Renaissance building, which used to be the brewery, there’s exhibition of other artist as well.

The history likes to repeat itself, like it was with Van Gogh, Egon’s art was also not appreciated during his life. Even worse, his works were strongly criticized. He began his adventure with art by drawing  idyllic landscapes and townscapes filled with angular shapes. In 1910 Egon settled down in Cesky Krumlov, then he was exiled. He was then coming back once in a while and stayed at Golden Angel Hotel, which still stands on the main square. He used to go to caffe Fink, however it does no longer exist. His stay in prison in 1912 made a huge impact on Egon and his style of painting. It is said that he suffered from depression back then, it is reflected in his dark paintings. While being imprisoned for child pornography, Egon draw 13 paintings. When he was imprisoned in 1916 in Austria he was force  to draw Russian’s officers portraits. He died on October 31^st 1918 from Spanish flu leaving 300 paintings and around 3000 drawing/sketches. During his short life, Egon was also designing clothes for Helena Fejkova’s studio.

I wish there were more paintings of Schiele, frankly I felt insatiable. 

Another artist I noticed was Roman Tyc whose sand portraits made an impression on me.

Unfortunately I didn’t feel the same for the artist Miriam Schwack, whose pictures was shocking for me.

Regional museum is mainly known for its ceramic model of the historic centre of Cesky Krumlov in scale 1:2000 made by Mr. Peter Pesek and his wife Mrs. Jana Peskova. It shows the town as it looked like more than 200 hundred years ago, in 1800. The model covers an area of 26 ha, 800 buildings, meander of Vltava river and fortification. I personally think it’s a masterpiece, with all little details on it, every narrow street, every chimney and every window is visible there.  We tried to compare the city as we see it today  with the ceramic model, one conclusion came to mind, 200 years made a significant difference in the town’s structure.

I was also astonished by the baroque costumes that were a part of the Museum’s exhibition. Men’s outfits were decorated by the same amount of gold as women’s heavy dresses. I can’t imagine myself dressed up like that, but I admire women at that times.

Another interesting stop at the museum was the original interior of a Baroque Jesuit Pharmacy.

Besides all mentioned, I didn’t like the fact that there’re huge posters full with text presenting a story of the city’s origin. I didn’t see anyone standing there and reading the full content. There’re too much information to grasp at once.

Before we moved further to Ceske Budejovice we’d devoted our last few hours in Cesky Krumlov to go and see the castle’s garden. Direction to P4 car park will lead you at the gate to the castle’s garden. Here you can admire the breathtaking view on the castle, take a glance at the centre, get lost in the huge park, listen to the gurgling water in the fountain or simply go for a walk at the pond. 

What’s however the most interesting in the garden is a circular theatre. I didn’t notice at the beginning that it can move, but soon after I read the announcement of upcoming events I noticed the marks on the floor. Performances will take place during summer, price ticket ranges from 300 kc to 700 kc, but I think it must be superb. You can’t really foresee what’ll happen in the act, where the actor is, where you’ll look in few moments… I just can’t imagine.  I want to go for something like that during summer.

If you still have some time in Cesky Krumlov I suggest visiting the surrounding. There’s an observation tower Klet, remote about 7 kilometers from the city centre. Green path from the Red Gate at the castle will lead you directly to the highest mountain of Blansky forest. You can also visit the village of Holasovice, consisting of 17 original farmhouses built in a South-Bohemian peasant baroque style which was listed by UNESCO in 1998. I found it enthralling that it was restored and repopulated in 1990, while after the WW2 it had been completely deserted. Every July a Traditional Peasant Festival is held there. Only 8 kilometers north east there’s a former monastery Zlata Koruna or 24 kilometers south from Cesky Krumlov, there’s Rozmberk Castle. So as you can see there’re plenty places to visit round Cesky Krumlov. Plan you holidays wisely so that you won’t miss anything.

Food/Restaurants

There is a wide range of choice, restaurant at every corner, vegetarian, grilled meat- you’ll get everything you wish for. After long quest we stayed at Rozmberska Basta, which is not only a restaurant but it also provides accommodation. They have a summer garden, where you can sit at the river and maybe even catch your own fish. Here’s the restaurants’ official website. By the way food was of a good quality, served quickly by a smiling waiter.  Another place worth considering is “Krcma vsatlavske ulici”  Food indescribably delicious, mellow meat, fresh vegetables, cold beer… I didn’t want to leave, but if I stayed any longer I could have spent all my savings there.

Accommodation

I’m pretty sure you would find a place to stay without prior reservation, but just to be sure do you reservation if you’re planning to visit Cesky Krumlov during summer. To tell the truth, some of them have no websites, so surfing the internet for a proper accommodation might be aimless. Cesky Krumlov is full of hotels, hostels or rooms to rent. Almost every restaurant owner possesses as well some kind of accommodation. Unfortunately it’s not cheap.  You should expect approximately 1000 kc per night. We stayed in Renaissance Hotel Leonardo. Very cosy and comfortable with huge corner bath. We booked the hotel at the slevomat.cz, so maybe you can also find such a bargain.

Guided tours

Tourist information centre offers a variety of guided tours such as daily tours, night tours, individual or group tours. It’s also possible to borrow the audio guide, which will lead you through the Renaissance centre.

All I can say is enjoy the beautiful city as Cesky krumlov is.

I will continue to describe  others spots from our 4-day trip such as Maiden stone castle, Ceske Budejovice and Hluboka castle soon.

More photos:

Dolni Kounice, Rosa Coeli

Dolni Kounice, Rosa Coeli

I have an amazing trip suggestion for all those lucky people, who don’t have to work tomorrow. And since women’s monastery “Rose of Heaven” - Rosa Coeli is opened tomorrow (28^th of October) for the last time this year, don’t miss your chance and go to Dolni Kounice. It’s about 40 minutes away from Brno, you can either go through Brno Modrice, Orechov, Siluvky and turn left to Dolni Kounice or from Brno Modrice follow the E461  route to Rajhrad and then watch the signs to Dolni Kounice.

Nunnery was established in 1181 by Vilem of Pulin and 2 years later women of Premonstratensian order moved in together with their rector Peter from Lounovic.

Before you enter to the Temple, spare few moments to look at the gate with Jesus Christ bas-relief on it. He holds the book of life in his left hand and gives his blessing with his right hand. Above his head, there’s the alpha and omega symbols, which means that Jesus Christ is the beginning and end of everything. Below his hands we see two heads. One of Saint Norbert-the founder of Premonstratensian order and the second, woman’s head of Gisele.

Behind the main entrance on your right 72 stairs will lead you on the top on the church’s tower. If you’re not scared of darkness climb and relish the view on the main nave long 45 meters and wide 10 meters. Imagine praying nuns sitting or kneeling at the church’s  benches. According to the paper brochure we were given, nuns spent 7 to 8 hours daily praying.

Move forward and you’ll see the place where used to be an altar and pulpit in the presbytery and the sacristy on its right.

Some symbols that reminds us of Christianity such as pelican feeding its offspring with blood or lamb may be found in one of the best preserved halls of the whole monument- in Capitulars hall. In front of it, there’s the paradise garden with an inactive well in the centre. A myths says that a golden duck sat on the well and laid one golden egg every year. The cross corridor surrounding the yard with 21 fields of the groined vault is also a kind of cemetery. Because nuns were not allowed to ever leave the temple, even after death they were buried here. I felt shivers up and down my spine when I read about a nun buried alive in the south wall of the corridor, it was a brutal punishment for her undeserving act-meetings with a man. 

From that point if you look up you’ll see the first floor, which was the only heated place in the whole area. That’s why nuns used to spend their free time there. Today it serves as a small gallery, some pictures and painting decorate the corridor.

Since 1808 women’s monastery was not renovated and turned into ruins. Monstrous and ravishing ruins, which we can fortunately admire today.