Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape
Is
it sunny or is it rainy? You never know. Weather in the Czech Republic is
unpredictable. Your plans can be ruined any minute. The weather during whole
week can be beautiful, but when it is getting closer to weekend the weather
changes dramatically. But enough with complaining, let's get to the crux of the
matter.
I was lucky not to listen to
weather forecast on Saturday. It was supposed to rain all day long, but
eventually it started to rain at 8 o'clock p.m. Against everything I set off
for a bike trip to south Moravia, a region of great wine, flat terrains and marvelous
architecture. We started in Valtice city located really close to Austrian borders - a small town with a nice main square. A train connection from Brno enables
easy access to the city within an hour. The bike path we rode is called
Lichtenstein way. Right from the city, to be exact from the city square starts cycle
path number 5045 in direction to Lednice. It’s rather impossible to get lost
there, because many cyclists follow exactly the same path. Just stick to
someone who looks as if he or she knows where to go.
Cycle
path 5045 goes through some extremely important architectural places connected
with Lichtenstein family starting with Rendez-vous through Three Graces and
Apollo’s Temple to Januv castle and Lednice chateaux.
Rendez-vous,
our first stop on the road, also called the Temple of Diana, was a hunting
lodge built in honor of General Johann I Josef of Lichtenstein who participated
in Napoleonic wars. It recalls Roman arches. Why the name: Temple of Diana? Mainly
because of the reliefs with hunting motives that were inspired by legends of the
virgin Diana. It’s possible to enter the four-floored lodge every day except
Mondays from May to September and in April and October only during weekends.
The entrance fee in 50 kc for an adult and 120 kc for a family. It’s quite
interesting that monument can be rented for a social and commercial events.
Then
we stopped for a moment to take few photos of Saint Hubert chapel. Even though
the chapel looks a bit negligent it is the “youngest” among all monuments
within Valtice-Lednice Complex. It was built in 1855.
In
order to see the Three Graces it’s necessary to follow red trail, cycle path
5045 goes directly to New Farm (Novy Dvur), which used to be a place for
breeding sheep, then after reconstruction a place for breeding horses and cows.
The
Three Graces monuments presents ancient goddesses Athena, Artemis and Aphrodite,
behind them there’s a semi-circle classical building designed by John Charles
Engel, where cyclists can taste wine sold by an old lady.
At
the New Farm just follow the concrete route(red cycle path) in front of you.
Some signs directing to an Apollo’s Temple can be found on the post. In case
you choose to turn left you’ll get directly to Lednice city, but you’ll miss
Apollo’s Temple and Januv castle. Because I didn’t want to miss any of those
beautiful monuments I followed the red trail for a few kilometers and took a
short break at the Apollo’s Temple, which was a nice building at the bank of
the pond with a view of the surrounding area. Interiors are not available for
sightseeing but for 25 kc you can get to balcony and take amazing photos from
upstairs. If you have enough time you can take a longer break at the pond and
even swim a bit in it. Unfortunately I couldn’t afford it, therefore I moved
quickly further to see what awaits me next. I rode along the pond for several hundred
meters and turn right to a city route, then I followed the cycle path signed
with Lichtenstein crown.
Another
building on the cycle path that belonged to the Lednice-Valtice Cultural Landscape,
a UNESCO Word Heritage was Januv Castle. For me the most ravishing from all of hitherto
seen, maybe because of the location, maybe because of the building itself. I
allowed myself to supplement lost minerals with a glass of delicious beer and
handful of nuts. I recommend this spot for a longer break not only because it’s
on a half way but also because of the welcome and pleasant atmosphere. There’s
a place to make bonfire with friends or to have a picnic with a whole family. There's
is also a little harbor, where you can take a boat and get to Breclav city along the Dyji river.
It
was time to get up and continue the trip; behind the castle turn left and
follow cycle path number 5066, remember don’t go back to the other side of the bridge. At the beginning it will lead through
cottage lanes and you will have the river on your left. Finally you’ll have to turn left on the concrete road. Follow
it for about 2-3 kilometers, as soon as you reach gate of the Lednice chateaux garden,
turn left. The garden is really worth seeing, every tree, every bush and flower has its own place
not by accident. Little islands among ponds are connected with bridges, hiking
path and cycle path. Diversity in flora and fauna amazes, it’s not rare to see
different waterfowl or pines and oaks, just beautiful. But as it is often at
the lakes, there’re mosquitoes, so take something against them.
One
of the adornment of the garden is Minaret created by architect Josef Hardtmuth,
who was also an author of Chinese Pavilion, the Temple of the Sun and a Gothic
house. Minaret is decorated with a copula based on Turkish style and surmounted
by a golden half-moon, it’s almost 60 meters tall. During holiday season it’s
open till 4.
From
Minaret monument it’s at point-blank range to Lednice chateaux. Unfortunately
cycling nearby the chateaux and English garden is forbidden, so get off the
bike as soon as you reach the sign.
Last
but not least on my must see list in Lednice-Valtice Area was Border
Home(Hranicni zamecek). I lost my way and didn’t go exactly the way I should
have, but finally I hit the target. Instead of taking the cycle path 5043,
which goes right behind the garden I followed the path marked with Lichtenstein
crown directing to Lednice’s pond. I
moved west to Border Home and then again followed the Lichtenstein cycle path
back to Valtice.
To
sum up, it was around 40 kilometers full of fun and cultural experience.